One way I deal with the stressors that we all encounter in life is to take another road trip to someplace I've never been. This particular time, I couldn't be gone long and just wanted a couple of days to be alone and regroup - a little "R&R" time. My destination of choice was a town that was recommended to me by several people, and was within a half-day drive. The town of Ferndale is off Highway 101 on the California coast, just south of Eureka. One of the draws for me was the reputation the town had earned as a tourist attraction because of the Victorian houses and other structures there.
In keeping with my goal to see new vistas, I decided to take Highway 36 from Red Bluff west to the 101. I had been told that it is a challenging drive, so what I encountered was not unexpected, but certainly met the description.
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| Mt. Shasta viewed from Hwy 36 |
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| Trinity Alps |
The entire 140 mile drive is a series of ups and downs and twists and turns that never allowed a speed of greater than about 45 miles per hour, and for most of the trip I found it necessary to stay back of 40. About a half-hour into the drive, I began to notice that every 20 miles or so I would see a "Road Narrows" sign. It first, I found this somewhat amusing, but at some point I decided if the road were to become any narrower than it already was, I would be straddling the center line just to keep my tires on the pavement. Then, of course, the center line just wasn't there anymore, and I had to assume that the State highway maintenance crews had decided "what's the point"?
Needless to say, I did eventually make it to Highway 101 and on to my destination, but I will admit that about halfway through the trip, I made the decision that driving 36 once was enough, and I would go north to Highway 299 for my return trip home. That said, I was treated to some really beautiful views of the Trinity Mountains and Mt. Shasta, as well as some spectacular Redwoods, which is always a special experience. I passed through the Six Rivers National Forest and the Grizzley Creek Redwoods State Park. As I dropped down from 4,000 feet in the mountains to the lower elevations, I followed the VanDuzen River, which is a tributary to the Eel River in Humboldt County.
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VanDuzen River Bridge
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I stayed at the Victorian Inn in Ferndale. It's a charming old building, and my room was comfortable. I would have preferred to experience one of the bed and breakfast options in the area, but they are generally booked out some months, or a little too expensive for my budget. Just a caution, there is no elevator in the building, and all the guest rooms are on the second floor, so carrying luggage up a flight of stairs is required.
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| My room at the Victorian Inn |
A complimentary breakfast is offered with your room at the Victorian, and it's cooked to order from a special menu and served in their beautiful dining room.
I had planned to have dinner there the second night of my stay, but the owners had scheduled a cattlemen's event of some sort, and the dining room was closed to guests. I found that to be somewhat disrespectful to guests staying at the Inn, although there was the option for a glass of wine and hors d' oeuvres in the bar.
The day of my arrival, I enjoyed a tasty, relaxing lunch in a local establishment on Main Street. The food was creative and the atmosphere friendly. I would recommend it to anyone visiting Ferndale.
It was a nice day, so I chose to eat in the garden area that leads from the street to the café.
Main Street in Ferndale is picturesque and there are some local shops that are interesting to visit. At the north entrance to town, you pass the Shaw House Inn. They were closed when I visited, but I wouldn't hesitate to book a room there on a return trip.
The town of Ferndale was founded by the Shaw brothers in 1852, and there is a huge crypt in the Ferndale Cemetery belonging to the Shaw family. It is the oldest house in Ferndale.
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| The Fern Cottage is located just west of downtown Ferndale, and is often booked for weddings and other events. |
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| The Gingerbread Mansion is really colorful and serves as a bed and breakfast. |
My favorite parts of Ferndale had to be the two cemeteries located on the east side of town. The first is the Ferndale Cemetery, where the Shaw family crypt is located. The graves date back to 1877. I took some time to walk through, and felt like I was in some magical place, where a gnome might suddenly pop out of a shrub to say hello.
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Shaw family crypt
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The Saint Mary's Cemetery is a little further out, and situated on a hillside as well.
I spent most of my second day driving north through the small town of Loleta, where I visited the Loleta Cheese factory - they are renowned for their cheese products, and I purchased four blocks to take home with me.
From Loleta, I headed a few miles north to the Humboldt Bay Wildlife Refuge. The Refuge is about 4,000 acres of various types of habitats. I spent a couple of hours walking the trails from the Visitor's Center around the wetlands and marshes nearby. It's a very peaceful environment, where you clearly hear the birds singing without competing sounds.
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| Research Center |
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| Birds in flight |
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| Salmon River Watershed |
I took a detour before returning to Ferndale, and followed the Eel River to the point where it empties into the Ocean
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| A gathering of friends on the Eel River |
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As decided on the first day of this adventure, I took a different route home. Eureka is about 20 miles north on Highway 101 from Ferndale. I spent a couple of hours there, driving and walking in the Old Town neighborhoods, where you are treated to some beautiful old Victorian era homes.
Victorian Homes Walking Tour
These are just a few of my favorites.
The route from Eureka to Redding includes a quick 10 miles or so north on Highway 101 to the intersection with 299 West, for a really scenic, easy 130 mile drive to Redding. I took a lunch break in Weaverville at Mamma Llama's Eatery & Cafe on the main street. I have stopped there several times, and the food is always good.
Mamma Llama's Eatery & Cafe
Highway 299 takes you around Whiskeytown Lake and through Old Shasta, and then on in to west Redding. A nice ending to an enjoyable getaway.
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| Brick ruins at Old Shasta |
